A Day in Dumbo

Last Friday despite the downpour I decided to take advantage of my lone day off and finally make a trip to Gargyle, the physical showroom and location of the beloved wares ogled daily on their online shop. With the intention of scooping up a Karen Walker beret and scoping out the sale items, I hopped on the C train and made my way down to Dumbo.

In classic Mauri fashion I neglected to write the building number down, but thanks to my photographic memory and their contact page remembered it was on Front Street between Jay and Pearl. Surfacing from the subway I located Front, headed North towards my prescribed destination, and of course managed to duck into a few new boutiques along the way.

Loopy Mango was the first. While the name is slightly bizarre (crazy fruit?) and totally lost on me, the boutique is quite cute and definitely stocks a few gems if you’ve got an affection for sparkles and silks. The racks are strewn with bigger and bolder names such as Badgley Mischka and Alexander Wang, and then alternately smaller American and European designers Mischen, Morphine Generation, and Ulla Johnson. I scored this crazy cat dress by Manoush (the one pictured) at 70% off. It’s definitely one of those pieces that can either be really awesome or really awful; needless to say I’m determined to make it the former. Something about it says to me 'cupcakes and champagne!'.

Moving on and out of Loopy Mango, I made it a few more blocks before sidetracking (it was pouring after all) my way into Blueberi. Evidently there’s a fruit theme I was previously unaware of... Anywho, they’ve got a terrific selection of accessories from little leather driving gloves, to 40’s inspired feathered headbands, and loads of handmade jewelry by local designers. I eyed Vena Cava’s latest collection (including the navy silk dress comprised of tiny heart cut outs, sigh) and a trench coat by the sister design duo Stretsis before settling up with 3 pair of tights.

Back onto the street my unwieldy umbrella and I gave the hunt for Garglye one more go. I wandered around the five block radius one more time, ducked into the used bookstore (much to the owner’s dismay) to dial 411 for their info, and with the number and location unlisted (and my shopping bags scattered about my feet) decided perhaps Gargyle could stand to wait another day.

Weakley Reading

Holiday in Tennessee always calls for several trips to the underwhelming Governor’s Square Mall where I’m bound to bump into no less than 15 people I 'know'. While racking my brain for names and associations I’m generally able to navigate some chatty, ambiguous conversation until I’ve made it a few safe paces away and can finally ask my little sister, ‘Now, who was that?’.

Old acquaintances I bargained for this past Xmas, but copies of Metro.pop and British Vogue (amongst the expected US Weekly, In Touch, and bold face American fashion mags) residing on the Borders magazine rack I did not. Evidently Clarksville, TN is moving up in the world or branching out rather, and provided me with some decent reading material for the flight back to the Big Apple. Here’s what I learned:

Evidently androgynous trends in fashion are heading south, anatomically speaking. Several of the designers featured in Metro.pop's latest issue (#32) originally began designing shoes for a specific sex and have eventually grown to encompass both. They've done so without compromising their original concepts and aesthetics, but by expanding their range in sizes: Generic Man, Double Identity, and Keep to name a few.

In other news Reebok is releasing the Voltron Pack: five variations of patent leather, shiny metallic, vibrantly hued sneakers that each come with a different toy. This throwback is definitely for the true blue sneakerheads. Perhaps the kind that wear terrycloth zebra print Spring Courts…has anyone ever seen these? I’m told (by someone who owns a pair) that they do in fact exist.

December’s British Vogue was the Glamour Issue with Sienna Miller on the cover. She looks great, but who can compete with those seductive shots of Kate Moss styled one part Faye Dunaway the other part Barbara Stanwyck circa Baby Face. Love it. Then there’s Naomi…the woman practically jumps off the page. She may be nutso, but damn does she have two-dimensional charisma. And finally there’s Sasha who makes a beautiful wide-eyed nymph, but frankly cannot compete with the real glamour girls who precede her.

That's my dose of frivolous December reading in a nutshell. Bring on January!

Psych 101

What's up with the anti enthusiastic shop girl mentality these days? It seems the more snobbish and apathetic the employees are the more the customer feels subconsciously pressured to make a purchase. Evidently this purchase proves that he or she is worthy to step foot in their store. Talk about a bizarre twist on customer service... Give 'em a dose of condescension and they just might hand over $700 for that cashmere cardigan. It's rather masochistic (and awful), don't you think?

Feed Me Some News

I've spent barely 3 hours in the last 3 months reading blogs, media coverage, and fashiony stuff I used to read religiously every day, numerous times a day. A year and a half ago I was starving for information and an outlet to discuss my fashion obsessions. I gorged myself on The Sartorialist, On the Runway, Coutorture, Mrs. Fashion, Refinery 29, F.A.D., Jezebel, and Fashionista amongst a slew of others, and as you clearly know started my own. In October I began to feel nauseous and subconsciously curbed my diet of fashion centric periodicals, inevitably my posts followed suit. That quickly spiraled into an all out fast. The cycle has finally come full circle though, and on this first day of January I just might be hungry for more.

Shopping vs. Saving

Ridiculously cheap rent is a double-edged sword in this city. The sacrifices one has to make in order to secure cheap rent (i.e. longer commute, smaller room, shady neighborhood) are all rewarded with the grand notion of building a savings account, having extra spending cash, and establishing a better standard of living. These were my grand notions, at least, when I moved into a tiny maid’s quarters adjoined to my girlfriends’ railroad apartment in a 3 story brownstone in Prospect Heights Brooklyn for- brace yourself- $350 a month. Yes, it’s unheard of. I’m a spoiled brat, a lucky dog, and have no intention of leaving anytime soon.

However after six months I have saved all of $74.10 (that was made from consigning a pair of $300 Grey Ant jeans) and at the end of every pay period find myself yet again flat broke. Let me add that I don't make a bad living comparitively. How does this happen?!

I sit and ponder what appears to be the indubitable reality of living month to month as I scan over the luxurious contents of my closet and it’s latest additions. There may be no money in the bank, but there’s a white rabbit fur coat, a vintage Fendi clutch, a dozen new Doucette Duvall silk dresses, four pair of Acne jeans, cashmere Marc Jacobs gloves (2 pair), Wolford tights, Opening Ceremony boots, silver Les Prairies loafers, a vintage Bulova, Lulu Frost jewelry, an Alexander Wang skirt, etc. etc. etc. all providing the spectacular décor for my petite bedroom. Evidently I'm not living month to month but rather shopping month to month.

Perhaps I have enough. I'm going to stop squandering and start saving...after Christmas...maybe the New Year?

All about the Acne's

According to November’s Vogue Kate Moss and Katie Holmes both turn to J Brand for their wide leg jean, but for this fall ‘essential’ I personally am all about the Acne’s. They have a great pair in deep indigo, with a fairly high rise (though not as high as their tubes), just the right amount of stretch, and a perfect width for ladies more vertically challenged. Coming from a girl who just consigned two pair of her own Grey Ant high waist/ wide leg jeans after a few wears, I’ve done a bit of research, and these Acne’s are just right.

Perhaps you could score a pair at their Sample Sale starting today! No luck there? Swing by Steven Alan’s Tribeca location or check out the Acne Jeans website. Their entire women’s collection has my heart.

*Note: The image does not do them justice; they're so much better in person.

Down wins

I’d prefer mink over down any day, but I have to admit I’m pretty darn excited about the down vest I scored at the Steven Alan sample sale yesterday. The navy and red plaid flannel lining (SO warm) adds a playful twist to an otherwise boring winter necessity. As much as I would rather splurge on party dresses and another stunning yet impractically thin winter coat- alas I have too many of those already- I’m proud to have finally made a legitimately wise purchase.

So, while I cuddle up in my cozy vest, you should go check out the sale, last day is tomorrow! Dig overstock/past seasons Steven Alan men’s and women’s shirting, a nice selection of dresses and mini’s from Sunshine and Shadow, beautiful Gryson bags, Cass Guy coats, A.P.C. shorts, a few star pieces from Mayle’s Spring 07 collection, and loads more.

Word on the street: Acne Jeans is having one next week!

A B C D E F G...

Courtesy of both author and blogger Lesley Blume- she’s one of my absolute favorites- I have come upon Marlene Dietrich’s book ABC. It is “a thoughtful journey through the alphabet” from one of the world’s most glamorous women, in which she comments on everything from men and mink to homeopathy and hardware stores. Here is the excerpt I read before bed last night:

GENTLEMAN
A man who buys two of the same morning paper from the doorman of his favorite nightclub when he leaves with his girl.

GLOVES
Gloves belong to suits, afternoon and evening dresses. Outside stitching on gloves is strictly reserved for sport suits and dresses.
Don’t waste money on black gloves. They clean very badly and make you sad.
One good rule to obey: Do not put your gloves back on when leaving a party or a restaurant. Once they are off, they stay off.

GOSSIP
Nobody will tell you gossip if you don’t listen.

The Great Wall of Fendi

Is this video not awesome?! What a fun fashion show to be at or in for that matter. Though I think of all the runways this would be the most terrifying one. Could you imagine falling at a show of this magnitude? Becoming fashion roadkill on The Great Wall? Thankfully none of them did.

Sorry Charlie!

My apologies for sparse posts in the past few weeks. My computer charger has conked out, and a trip to the Apple Store proves more difficult to squeeze in to my busy days than I had originally thought. Things are looking up though; today I have off and plan to make that the first errand on the agenda. There will be a real post coming soon. I promise!

What are we buying for?

Lately I find shopping habits running away from me with my debit card in tow. I walk into work in one outfit, and walk out in another. My long work hours used to prevent my compulsive shopping habit- with stores closing at 7 or 8- but now that I work in a store daily that ‘inconvenience’ no longer serves as a barrier. But who am I kidding? This bad habit reaches far wider than impulse purchases made only at the ‘office’ and this past weekend forced me to contemplate the psychology of shopping a bit more…

Last Saturday I walked into Ina in a pair of Prada flats (a previous compulsive purchase) and was damn close to walking out in snakeskin Valentino heels- carnation sized flowers at the toe- that looked perfect with my outfit for the day. Just perfect. I stood in front of the mirror admiring them for 15 minutes before realizing just how close I was to handing over the last few hundred dollars in my bank account for a pair of shoes. The gesture sounds almost romantic- in a fashiony kind of way- and would have been, but after calculating the amount of money spent on clothes already this month I knew I was not in Kansas anymore. I frantically collected my compulsive urges, shoved them to the bottom of my being, and marched out the door headed west.

There is something about this time of year (maybe the moon?), where I continually find myself nearing the edge. Thankfully I came to my senses just before going over it.

Safe and sound ten blocks away (do you find there's a shopping radius that has to be broken to truly free yourself from the temptation?) I took refuge on the bench outside of Raoul’s, secured a glass of my favorite red, and contemplated just what exactly are we buying for?

It has nothing to do with self-esteem, lord knows I probably have too much, and I’m not buying for the approval of others. In fact I chose not to buy for the approval of others in this particular instance. I knew if I showed up to drinks with Glynnis in a new pair of heels she would be so dismayed, and then there I would be with my shameful shoes, the absurdity of my behavior becoming increasingly and embarrassingly apparent over the course of the night.

No, this compulsive shopping is more individual and internal than all of that. It’s the rush of the purchase and how that purchase is going to transform some part of you. If we are, like I believe, all dressing up for this theater of life and our outfits are visual expressions of the character we’re ‘playing’, what happens when by the end of the day you are identifying with a different side of your character? You instinctively want to be dressed as ‘her’! This explains why you leave the house in a mini skirt and boots and by the end of the day you want a toned down t-shirt and flats, why you choose pants some days and dresses others. There is a method to the madness after all. Think about it, and why you’re thinking about it the next time you get dressed.

Third Time's A Charm?

Polaroids anyone?

The time has come to pull myself down from those lofty Fashion Week rafters and get back to business, which for me means shooting. However there's not going to be a lot of shooting going on with one lonely package of Polaroid 600 film left in the crisper. Hence me calling for backup: If anyone out there has film sitting around that they'd like to send my way (expired film is great too!) please shoot me an email at fashionweakley@gmail.com and we can talk logistics. Feel free to pass the word out to anyone you know who may be willing to contribute/sell. Lately we've been working on lookbooks for young indie designers, so your film is going to a great cause!

Doucette Duvall DeLovely

I was feeling a little Carrie Bradshaw when Fashionista's Faran walked into the Doucette Duvall salon show held at The Inn on Little West 12th street Thursday afternoon. She nearly jumped out of her skin as I came to life from my seated pose on the leather sofa, introduced myself, and then realizing her confusion clarified, "I'm one of the non models."
It was the result of a classic Fashion Week moment- one that I've witnessed more than once this week - wherein the show is in final countdown, and there's still one model twenty blocks away.

Annebet: Perfect! Mauri, you're in the show. Do you mind? Of course you don't mind. Put on this dress. You're wearing tights. No, not tights, knee highs. You like this dress, remember? You'll look great. You have to wear these golf shoes.

Me: But Annebet, they're a 10 and I'm a 6! Can't I wear my own?

Annebet: No. Ok, fine. Wear your own, they're fine. Go to hair and make up now!

Me: I want red lips! (to the hair and make up)

H & M: You don't get red lips. You get eyebrows and nude make-up.

Me: I can't have red lips?! I'm going to look like a man. I don't want to look like a man. Don't I get cheekbones?

I'd be a terrible model. And I talk too much.

Thankfully there was no runway involved (therefore no fashion roadkill) and I could sit and chat with the 17 year old girls (the real models), sip champagne, and send friends to fetch me fun props for distraction. Finally the young lady showed up a half hour into the show, I was relieved of my posing duties, transformed back into my natural self (red lipstick and perfectly bobbed hair), and proceeded to my official duties of the afternoon, Polaroiding the scene.

The venue perfectly set off their gentleman's club attire. The brightly hued dresses with high hemlines, the sometimes big bows, and other times playful pockets were set off by the woodwork, paintings, and beautiful sunlight streaming through the paned glass windows. Bowls of gummy cherries and stacks of old Playboy magazines were scattered around the cigar smoking ladies made up with penciled mustaches and heavy eyebrows for a clever contrast.

The little black silk lined dress with a chic scoop back may have been my favorite of the collection, though it's difficult to say, they're all so great. These girls make fantastic dresses in beautiful rescued silks and buttons with wearable bodies that are so comfortable and forgiving. Throw one on with a pair of heels (or overalls!) and you're ready for a party!

I went to hang with Alexander Wang

Though Alexander Wang’s show at Bumble and Bumble was out of the question (fire marshaled beyond capacity) the party was still on and located at a warehouse on W 37th street.

You know it’s gonna be a good night when you’re on the list and the bartender knows your name. The AC could have been kicked up a notch- er on, but I must admit it made for a steamy dance party. Uber stylish bright young things downed vodka and champagne to sets by ‘It’ DJ Steve Aoki (among others) and rocked out to Brooklyn band Locksley. BTW, great cover of Hotel Yorba. Two vodka sodas and two hours later I was busting a move in an Alexander Wang/some young Italian man sandwich to Rage Against the Machine. Yeah, haven’t heard that since high school. I must admit the scene was a step up from my ’88 Oldsmobile, tape deck blaring.

*Photos from nymag.com

Rewind!

Forget about the runway; fashion week is running away. Thus far I’ve been to nine shows and two kick ass parties and there’s no telling where I’ll end up tonight, but in the meantime let me briefly recap Day 1:

BCBG was all washed out pretty dresses. The hems were long and flowing, and skinny brown belts were wrapped around skinny little waists knotted at the front rather than belted. Props to the stylist. Abaete is so not my speed, but I have to admit they had some great swimwear. Dig the 20’s style one pieces and parasols. Alexander Herchcovitch was a small spectacle with the Misshapes sitting front row and Opening Ceremony kids sprinkled throughout the crowd. The collection was very dandy in mourning with ruffled collars, detached cuffs, primarily black and white with pops of fluorescent red, yellow, and pink. The Perry Ellis crowd was chock full of buyers and very handsome men. Quite a refreshing hour of eye candy! The collection and models were bathed in a pale yellow. I dug it- for preppy menswear that is. Rag & Bone was a real show, one that I would obviously make a point to attend again. Cipriani’s is a spectacular space with the perfect ambiance for their collection and their crowd. Kate Bosworth made an entrance as I was sipping a Bellini and mingling with the Refinery 29 crew. She is honestly as dazzling in real life as she is in paparazzi pics. The girl glows.

That's it in a nutshell; more to come! Check out the Abaete suits below...

Day 1 Fashion Week

I think I need to call Verizon and up my number of texts. I must have used 150 yesterday and it’s only Day 1:

M: I think this is julia allison filming next to me
G: Ask her.
G: Are you having fun yet?
M: Sort of…I’m running around w/ a shit load of stuff grrr…
G: Isn’t there some free champagne to guzzle? Seeing anyone fun? Andre Leon Talley perhaps
M: On the upside I’m going into A. Herchcovitch now
M: Not yet. Think sienna miller was at bcbg. Other than that no big names yet and no champagne. However scored free lunch and some mac makeup
M: The misshapes are sitting across from me. A lot of opening ceremony kids here.
G: Give them your card and invite to tom. doucette duvall show. Throw in a dj ref or something
M: Swedish mag solo just took my pic for mag and website. Looking 4 sart.
M: At Rag n Bone in Ciprianis. Finally bellinis.
G: Nice!
M: Uploading pics in the library if you wanna swing by, keep me company. this is going to be 4ever
G: Liveblogging huffpo


Two hours, one shower, and a new dress later at the Calvin Klein party

M: This is f***ing awesome. U have to come. Ur on the list.
G: Still at huffpo
M: T. richardson just walked n
M: Just chat with nikola for a few minutes. Here for jezebel
G: Where’s the party?
M: Come 205 w. 39th st!
M: 7th ave
M: I just randomly ran into suze from glamour!
M: Talking to cute boy from Esquire, while looking at naked boys in underwear, not bad
M: R u coming?
G: Still at huffpo hoping to leave in twenty. You done?
M: Yeah. Think so. Gotta go upload. No more champagne

big eyes and strange names calling

Shop Talk

Last night while walking to meet friends for a bottle of wine at Brooklyn’s Bar Tabac, I was mentally running over my outfits for upcoming Fashion Week (squeal!). Noting the missing links, I found myself debating whether I should get this necklace or that, this dress or those pants (can you wear wool in 70+ degree weather?), and mapping out where and when I could fit in those last minute purchases.

All of this contemplation took place after spending the day styling and shooting Doucette Duvall’s Spring 08 line on million dollar doorsteps (belonging to someone else), along the Brooklyn Heights promenade, and in front of the library with books and props and smokes in tow. And all of that contemplation was in addition to devoting the past week to color co-ordinating racks, creating sweater stories with the latest Demylee cashmere, and dressing Herman, Eduardo, and Yvette the mannequins who are now quite near and dear to my heart.

My thoughts are nearly entirely consumed with fashion, which my friend has recently called to my attention. Once a member of the Fashion Math school of thought, she has flown the coop for more politically minded and responsible subjects as of late. Bummer for me, my shopping buddy is currently M.I.A. Thus I have been left to my own devices, fending for myself during serious decision making processes. According to her all of the shopping and shop talk was turning her brain to mush.

Her point is obviously valid. My time could be spent more wisely invested in subjects beyond “should I get the Marc Jacobs coat or the Bless wool trousers with this paycheck? Gosh, I just can’t make up my mind!” But in the end, to be quite honest, I really only feel just a twinge of guilt. Perhaps the tide will turn and one day my all consuming interest in fashion will recede out. Until then I’ll continue re-reading Guy Trebay's latest Times article to soothe my conscious. If you are seeking comfort for contemplating clothing as well I suggest you read this. Come on guys, just "admit it. You love it. It matters."

Bag Borrow or Steal...

Designer bags that is! Bagborroworsteal.com may be the most genius website known to woman. For a mere $5 a month you can become a member and gain access to a myriad of rentable ‘It’ bags priced according to the actual retail cost of the bag and of course demand, and rented by either the week or the month.

The Netflix of both couture and RTW accessories, it’s the perfect solution when facing limited funds, needing (wanting) a great quality bag, and remaining indecisive. Instead of buckling down, making a decision, and dropping the $300 or $3,000 (depending) on your bag of choice for the season, you can now spend $40 to $400 a month and exchange the bag at your leisure. Tired of that quilted Chanel? Pop it in the mail, and have a Miu Miu clutch on your doorstep in a day or two.

The only setback I’ve discovered is that shipping is not included. That said, I believe this is quite possibly the most brilliant collaboration between new media and fashion yet. Not to mention it’s Eco-friendly!

It's the Never Ending Story

Fashion is like a crystal ball these days. In one month you can see your past, present, and future in clothing. The remaining Spring ’07 pieces have been sanctioned off on sale racks. Fall ’07 collections are arriving in monstrous UPS deliveries and surfacing on the floor as soon as stock can feed them through (poor guys), and in three weeks Spring ’08 collections will be waltzing down the runway.

It’s a bizarre time of year and seems to become increasingly so considering the abnormal weather of late. Um, I wore wool yesterday on the 21st of AUGUST! Our heads are just beginning to wrap themselves around tweeds and cashmere, before jumping ship to sun dresses and swimsuits once again. I'm not so sure that I'm ready for linen or pastels, but bring on the fashion shows and after parties.